Steel stud framing in Vancouver for walls that stay straight
Vancouver Drywall Guys does steel stud framing in Vancouver for houses, condos and strata interiors: non-load-bearing light gauge partitions, furring over concrete, bulkheads, soffits and curved walls. Steel does not warp or shrink as it dries out, so the finish you pay for is still there next winter. Where the drawings call for a rated assembly, we build the listed assembly they specify.
- Non-load-bearing interior partitions
- Furring over concrete, bulkheads and soffits
- Rated assemblies built to the approved drawings
- Fixed price by the job, cleanup included
Get a fixed-price quote
Send us the details and we will get back to you with a written quote. No hourly guessing.
Thanks, we have your details
We read every request and reply with a written quote. If it is urgent, call604-227-4559and you will get one of us on the phone.
Open 7 days
8AM to 8PM, including weekends
Fixed-price quotes
Priced by the job, never by the hour
Same-day small repairs
Patches and holes often same or next day
We clean up
Debris and dust removal included
What we frame
Steel stud framing Vancouver builders and strata councils book us for
All of it non-load-bearing interior work. Studs and track come in standard depths of 1-5/8, 2-1/2, 3-5/8 and 6 inches, and the depth and gauge get picked for the height of the wall, what it has to carry and what the drawings say.
Interior partitions
Non-load-bearing walls to split a room, close in an office or add a bedroom in a suite. Studs set in top and bottom track, fastened with self-drilling screws, spaced and braced for the height of the wall.
Furring over concrete and masonry
Steel furring channel is the standard way to finish a concrete tower suite or a poured basement wall. It gives you a flat plane to board and a cavity for wiring, plumbing and insulation without fixing timber against damp concrete.
Bulkheads and soffits
Dropped boxes hiding ducts, sprinkler mains and drain stacks. Steel is the usual pick here because a bulkhead is mostly short cut lengths, and steel stays the size you cut it.
Curved and radius walls
Track can be kerfed and set to a radius, and the studs follow it at a consistent spacing. Tell us the radius and which way the board wraps, because a tight curve changes how the studs get laid out.
Rated assemblies from the drawings
Where the permit drawings call for a fire separation, we build the listed assembly they specify, component for component. That is a different job from putting up a wall that looks the same, and the section below explains why.
Straight comparison
Steel or wood for an interior wall, honestly
Almost every argument for steel on an interior wall comes back to one thing. Wood moves as it loses moisture and steel does not.
A wood stud shrinks, cups, twists and occasionally bows as it dries out in a heated building. Every bit of that movement ends up in the drywall attached to it, which is why so many Vancouver houses show rows of nail pops and cracked seams a year or two after a renovation that looked perfect at handover. Steel is dimensionally stable, so you get far fewer of both.
The other differences are real but smaller. Steel is non-combustible. It does not rot and it does not feed mould in a damp cavity, which matters more here than it does in a dry climate. It arrives straight and consistent instead of needing to be sorted through, so walls come out flatter. And it is lighter to carry, which is a genuine advantage when material has to go up a freight elevator booked for a short window.
Now the other direction. If you have one short partition to add in a wood-framed house, where the trades on site are set up for wood and the fasteners are already in the van, steel buys you close to nothing and adds a step. We frame that in wood and tell you why. The second case is heavy fixings. Steel needs backing designed in for a television bracket, upper cabinets, a wall-hung vanity or a grab bar, and putting that in after the board is on means cutting the wall open again. Decide where those things go before the wall closes and the problem disappears.
What a framing scope includes
- Layout snapped and checked against the drawings before anything is fixed down
- Top and bottom track fixed, studs set and screwed with self-drilling screws
- Deflection or slip track where a partition runs to a slab or structure above
- Openings framed for doors, borrowed lights and pass-throughs
- Backing or blocking put in for TVs, cabinets, vanities and grab bars
- Bulkheads and curved work set out and framed to the radius you need
- Offcuts and packaging taken away, floors swept
We do not design assemblies and we are not engineers. Structural walls, anything carrying load and anything in the lateral system of the building need a professional engineer, and we will say so rather than take the job.
The part people get wrong
What makes a fire-rated wall actually rated
This is the one area of framing where doing something that looks right is worth nothing at all.
A fire separation gets its rating as a complete assembly that was built a particular way, tested, and then listed. The rating belongs to the assembly. It does not belong to the board, or to the studs, or to any other single part of it.
Everything in that assembly was part of what got tested. The board type and how many layers go on each face. The stud gauge and spacing. The fastener type and how far apart the screws sit. Whether there is insulation in the cavity. How the joints are treated, and how the head of the wall is detailed where it meets the structure above. Substitute any one of those for something that seems equivalent and the listing you were relying on no longer applies to what you built.
The required rating for your situation comes from the Vancouver Building By-law, and on permitted work it is on the approved drawings along with the assembly being used. That is where those numbers live, and it is the only place we will take them from. Anyone quoting you a rating over the phone before seeing a drawing is guessing.
So the way we work it is simple. We read the wall types on the drawings, confirm which assembly each rated wall is meant to be, and build that assembly component for component. Where a detail is missing or contradictory, we get it clarified before we start rather than making a decision that is not ours to make.
Vancouver rules
Permits, strata approval and the framing inspection
Adding walls is permit work in Vancouver even when the walls carry nothing. Knowing that before you plan a schedule saves more money than any framing decision on this page.
The framing inspection is what sets your start date for board
On permitted work the framing inspection happens before any insulation goes in, and after the sheathing membrane and all the plumbing, gas, electrical and mechanical rough-ins are done. Framing, beams, fire blocking and draft stopping all have to be visible. Nothing gets boarded until it passes.
- Framing can be finished days before the inspection can happen, because it waits on other trades finishing their rough-ins
- Anything you want backing or blocking for has to be decided before this point, since it needs to be in and visible
- Board going on before the hold point clears can mean taking it back off, which is a cost nobody budgeted for
- We ask about permits and inspections at the quote stage so the schedule we give you is the real one
What it costs
What drives the price of steel stud framing in Vancouver
We are not publishing a per foot rate here, because we do not have Vancouver steel framing figures we would stand behind and a made-up range would only mislead you. Here is what actually moves the number instead.
- Linear feet of wall. The base measure. Total run of partition, plus any furring on concrete or masonry walls, which is priced by area rather than length.
- Stud depth and gauge. Standard depths are 1-5/8, 2-1/2, 3-5/8 and 6 inches. Lighter gauges suit ordinary non-load-bearing partitions. Heavier gauge goes in where the wall is tall, carries something, or the drawings call for it.
- Wall height and what is above it. A partition stopping at a ceiling is quicker than one running full height to a slab above, which needs a deflection or slip track and a proper head detail.
- Openings and corners. The most underestimated item on any framing quote. A wall with four doors in it is a very different job from a plain wall of the same length.
- Whether a rated assembly is required. A listed fire separation is more material, more fasteners and more care at every junction, and it has to be built exactly as specified.
- Access and elevator booking. Ground floor with parking outside is one price. A tower suite where every sheet and stick comes up a freight elevator on a booked slot is another.
- Whether the drywall is in the same scope. Framing plus board, taping and finishing in one scope is cheaper than splitting it, and nobody ends up blaming another trade for a wall that is out of plumb.
The process
How a steel stud framing job with us goes
We take on steel stud framing Vancouver-wide, seven days a week. No site visit fee, and no obligation once you have the price.
- 1
Tell us what the wall has to do
Where it goes, how tall, what is above it, and whether anything hangs off it. A phone call covers most of it. If you have permit drawings, send them, because the stud depth, the gauge and the head detail are usually already decided on paper.
- 2
We check the drawings before we cut track
On permitted work we read the wall types against the plan and confirm what each wall is meant to be. If a wall on your drawings is structural, or if a rated assembly is called for and the details are missing, you hear about it then instead of on the day the inspector arrives.
- 3
Frame, get it inspected, then board
Track laid out and fixed, studs set, openings framed, backing put in where fixings are going, head detail done properly. Nothing gets closed up until the framing inspection passes. Then we board and finish, or we hand it off, whichever you have booked.
Questions
Steel stud framing questions we get asked
Including the two or three where the answer is that you do not need steel, or do not need us.
Is steel stud framing better than wood for interior walls?
For most interior partitions in Vancouver, yes, and the reason is moisture. Wood gains and loses water and changes shape as it does. It warps, twists, cups and shrinks, and every bit of that movement ends up in the drywall as nail pops and cracked seams a year after you paid for a perfect finish. Steel does not do any of that.
The rest of the case: steel is non-combustible, it does not rot or feed mould in a damp cavity, and it arrives dimensionally consistent so the wall comes out straighter with less picking through a pile for usable studs. It is also lighter to carry, which sounds trivial until you are moving material into a tower on a freight elevator booked for a two hour window.
Where wood wins is a single short partition in a house that is already wood framed, with a carpenter on site and the right fasteners in the van. Switching one wall to steel there buys you very little and adds a trade. We will say so rather than sell you the upgrade.
Do I need a permit for a non-load-bearing partition in Vancouver?
Yes. Adding interior partitions needs a City of Vancouver building permit even where the wall carries no load. The logic is straightforward: once the wall is closed up, an inspector cannot see what went in behind it, so the check has to happen while it is open.
The other trigger worth knowing is that the City lists drywall repairs to fire separations in multi-unit residential buildings as permit work, in the same list as structural repairs. Walls between two units, corridor walls, ceilings between suites, and shaft or service room walls are likely fire separations. A partition inside your own suite is not one of those.
We do not pull the permit for you. What we do is tell you what we think you need before quoting, and then work to the drawings that get approved. If you are unsure which category your job sits in, the City's Development and Building Services Centre will tell you, and that call is free.
Can you frame a load-bearing wall in steel?
No. We frame non-load-bearing interior light gauge steel, and that is the whole of our scope. If a wall carries floor or roof load, or forms part of how the building resists wind and earthquake, it needs a professional engineer to design it and it is not our work.
Same answer if you are removing an existing wall and are not certain what it holds up, or if you want a partition to brace something, or if the drawings show a shear wall. Those all belong to an engineer, and in Vancouver they generally come with sealed drawings that the permit process wants to see anyway.
We are not engineers and we do not design assemblies. What we do is build accurately to the design somebody qualified produced. If you send us a plan and the wall type on it looks structural, we will point at it and tell you to get that part designed before anybody frames anything.
How do I hang a TV or heavy kitchen cabinets on a steel stud wall?
You plan it before the wall closes. This is the one real drawback of steel and it catches people out constantly. A light gauge stud is thin metal, so it does not hold a lag screw the way a 2x4 does. Toggle anchors into board alone are fine for a picture and not fine for a 65 inch television on a tilting bracket.
The fix is backing: solid blocking, a steel strap or a plywood backer fixed between the studs at the height the bracket lands, put in while the framing is open. It costs us a few minutes and almost no material. Retrofitting it after the board is on means cutting the wall open, which is a nuisance and a repair.
So when we quote, we ask where the TV goes, where the upper cabinets land, whether there is a wall-hung vanity or a grab bar, and whether anything gets mounted in the future. Walk the space with a tape and tell us the heights. That conversation is the difference between a solid fixing and a phone call in eight months.
Are steel stud walls noisier than wood, or better for sound?
Steel is usually the better sound performer, and the reason is that the studs flex. A light gauge steel stud is springy compared with a solid piece of lumber, so it transmits less vibration from one face of the wall through to the other. Wood is stiff, and stiff frames couple the two sides together.
That said, the stud is a small part of the outcome. What actually decides how quiet a wall is: insulation in the cavity, how many layers of board are on each side, whether the perimeter is sealed with acoustic sealant instead of left with a gap, and whether sound is getting around the wall entirely through a shared floor, a ceiling void, a duct, or back-to-back electrical boxes. That last one is called flanking and it defeats good walls all the time.
If sound is the point of the project, say so up front, because it changes the framing layout and not just the board. And do not spend on a high performing wall while leaving an unsealed gap along the top of it. The gap will win.
What makes a wall actually fire-rated?
A fire separation is rated as a complete assembly that was built and tested as a unit, then listed. It is not rated because of any single component. The board type, the number of layers, the stud gauge and spacing, the fastener type and spacing, the insulation, how joints are treated and how the head of the wall is detailed were all part of the test. Swap any one of them for something similar and you no longer have the listing you were relying on.
The required rating comes from the Vancouver Building By-law for your specific situation, and on permitted work it appears on the approved drawings along with the assembly being used. That is where the numbers live. We do not invent them and we would be suspicious of any contractor who quotes you a rating off the top of their head over the phone.
The practical point: "it looks like a fire wall" and "it is a rated assembly" are different statements. We build the listed assembly your drawings specify rather than assembling something that resembles it, and we confirm the assembly against the drawings before starting. If the drawings are unclear about a detail, we get it clarified rather than guessing, because a guess here is the sort of thing that fails an inspection or, much worse, fails in a fire.
Can you frame inside a concrete condo or tower?
Yes, and it is a lot of what steel framing is for. Concrete towers are where steel makes the most obvious sense: you cannot reliably fix timber to damp concrete, material has to come up an elevator, and the suite walls need to end up flat for a finish that shows every wave.
Two details matter in a tower. The first is furring: steel channel fixed to the concrete gives you a flat plane and a cavity for services and insulation. The second is the top of any full height partition. Where a wall runs to a concrete slab or a structural member above, that structure moves, and screwing the partition tight to the underside of the slab transfers load into a wall that was never meant to carry any. A deflection or slip track lets the structure move independently. Skip it and you get a crack along the top of the wall, usually within the first year.
Building logistics are their own job. Elevator booked a day or two ahead, common areas protected, work kept to weekday hours as the building requires. Tell us the building when you call and we will work to its rules.
Do you do the drywall as well, or just the framing?
Both, and having one crew do the framing and the board is usually cheaper and faster. Drywall is the main thing we do, so framing and boarding in the same scope means nobody is waiting on another trade and nobody is blaming the other trade for a wall that is out of plumb.
It also removes the most common argument on a job. When the framer and the boarder are different companies, small errors in layout become somebody else's problem. When we frame it, we own how easy it is to board, so we get the layout right.
If you already have a framer and just want board, taping and finishing, that is fine too. And if you want us to frame while your own crew boards, also fine. Just tell us which at the quote stage, because it changes the price and the schedule.
How long does it take to frame a room?
The framing itself is fast. A straightforward partition or two in a suite is often a day, sometimes less. A basement layout with several rooms, a few bulkheads and furring on the exterior walls is more like two to four days of framing.
Calendar time is a different number, and on permitted work the framing inspection sets it. That inspection happens before any insulation goes in and after the sheathing membrane and all the plumbing, gas, electrical and mechanical rough-ins are complete, with framing, beams, fire blocking and draft stopping visible. So the framing may be finished on Tuesday and still be waiting on an electrician and an inspector on Friday. Nothing gets boarded until it passes.
In a strata building, add the approval process to the front of the schedule. That is measured in weeks, not days. See the question below.
Does my strata need to approve steel stud framing in my unit?
Almost certainly, in writing, before work starts. That applies to any framing, and more firmly where the work touches something structural or something the strata insures. Realistically the approval process takes four to eight weeks, so start it the moment you are serious about the project rather than after you have booked a contractor.
Buildings normally have their own requirements on top of the approval itself: the service elevator booked a day or two ahead, common areas and lobby floors protected, work kept to weekday hours. Some ask for a certificate of insurance before anyone is allowed on site.
We work with strata councils and property managers regularly, so send us the building rules with the drawings and we will quote to them. What we cannot do is speed the council up. Every job we see delayed in a tower is delayed at that stage, not at the framing stage.
Do you do commercial or office partitions?
We take on light commercial interior partitions, and we should be honest about how we are set up rather than overselling it. Our work is centred on residential, condo and strata interiors. A small office demised with non-load-bearing steel partitions, a bulkhead over a duct run, furring on a concrete wall in a ground floor unit, that is all the same work we do in a suite and we are comfortable with it.
What we are not is a specialist commercial interiors contractor. Fire-rated wall assemblies built to the drawings, yes. Anything that needs a scope beyond framing, boarding and finishing during normal working hours is worth asking us about directly rather than assuming, and we will tell you straight if it is not a fit.
We work 8AM to 8PM seven days a week and we quote a fixed price for the job. If your site has requirements we cannot meet, you will hear that from us before you have wasted time on a quote.
What does steel stud framing in Vancouver cost?
We do not publish a per foot rate for this, because we do not have Vancouver steel framing numbers we would stand behind, and a made-up range is worse than none. Most of the per linear foot figures floating around online do not state a currency and are probably American. Vancouver labour also runs roughly 20 to 25 percent above the Canadian average for this kind of work, so national calculators will come in low.
What we can tell you is what moves the number: linear feet of wall, the stud depth and gauge, the height of the wall and whether it runs all the way to a slab above, how many door openings and corners there are, whether a rated assembly is required, site access including elevator booking in a tower, and whether the drywall is in the same scope. Openings and corners are the ones people underestimate, since a wall with four doors in it is a lot more work than a plain wall of the same length.
We quote a fixed price for the job rather than an hourly rate, with cleanup and debris removal included and the workmanship warranty term written into the quote before anything starts. Describe the job on the phone and we can usually get you a number without a site visit.
Also available
Our other drywall services in Vancouver
Most jobs need more than one of these, and it is usually cheaper and faster to have one crew do the lot.
- 01
Drywall installation
Board hung and finished for new builds, additions, basements and gut renovations, from single rooms to whole houses.
- New construction drywall
- Basement drywall
- 02
Drywall repair
Holes, cracks, water damage, popped nails and failed corner bead patched and blended so the repair disappears.
- Hole and dent patching
- Water damage repair
- 03
Drywall taping
Taping, mudding and sanding to the finish level your job actually needs, including Level 5 skim coat for critical lighting.
- Taping and mudding
- Level 4 finishing
- 04
Textured ceilings
Stipple and popcorn ceilings smoothed, repaired or re-textured, with straight answers about asbestos testing first.
- Textured ceiling removal
- Popcorn and stipple ceiling removal
- 05
Insulation installation
Batt and acoustic insulation in walls, ceilings and basements, installed with the drywall that covers it.
- Wall batt insulation
- Ceiling batt insulation
Got walls to frame in a house, suite or strata building?
Describe the layout on the phone, or send the permit drawings if you have them. We will tell you what the wall needs, what it will cost as a fixed price, and where an engineer has to be involved instead of us.
7 days a week, 8AM to 8PM
